Showing posts with label tuberose. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tuberose. Show all posts

Oct 15, 2018

Perfume Review: Gucci Bloom

Gucci Bloom is the first feminine fragrance released by the Florentine fashion house under its new creative director, Alessandro Michele. Created in collaboration with master perfumer Alberto Morillas it's a white floral- but not for wallflowers!

(via)
If you have any interest in modern fashion, then you know that Gucci has been killin' it! If you'd like to know what "killin' it" looks like in the 21st century - please take a gander at the above photo of Gucci's Fall 2018 collection. Gone are the antiquated esthetics of Gucci's previous creative directors. Arrivederci to Tom Ford's tired "porn chic" and Frida Giannini's minimalistic "functional chic." Mr. Michele references a little of everything in his kaleidoscopic fashion sense.  Severed heads, babushkas, and unibrows become accessories. Victorian glam meets 90's hip-hop and 70's rock and roll. There's a bit of David Bowie, Little Edie, Frida Kahlo, Los Luchadores, Norman Bates, Gatsby, and Game of Thrones thrown in too. Nothing "normcore" going on here. Welcome to the 21st century, the era of MAXIMALISM - more is more!

Alessandro Michele 

Above is a photo of the aforementioned Mr. Michele in one of his gorgeous floral suits. He describes his magpie approach to fashion thusly:

“It’s my aesthetics,” he says. “You can be one thing today, something else the next day just for the business. I feel it’s an old-fashioned idea that you have to change every season. You have to build your look.” He adds: “I’m like a thief of the granny wardrobe. There’s always something from the past that can match in a beautiful way with something new.”  -Alessandro Michele

I find it fascinating to see how a change in creative leadership can completely turn a brand around. Gucci's new tagline is, "Redefining modern luxury fashion." And they mean it!


Gucci lists only three notes in its description of Bloom:

 "Gucci Bloom is created to unfold like its name, capturing the rich scent of a thriving garden filled with an abundance of flowers. Tuberose and jasmine combine with Rangoon Creeper—a unique flower discovered in South India that is being used for the first time in perfumery to create a rich fragrance that transports the wearer to an imaginary garden. The scent is presented in a lacquered bottle, reminiscent of porcelain, in a vintage powder pink shade with a Gucci label appliqué."

I think I sniff a little more than just tuberose, jasmine, and Rangoon creeper- perhaps one of Alberto Morilla's signature musks?

Rangoon creeper (Combretum indicum)
The scent of Rangoon creeper (Combretum indicum) is a familiar one to me. It is a fairly common ornamental plant throughout Asia in tropical areas. Several of our neighbors have Rangoon creepers sprawling over their front fences. I've seen it in Thailand and southern Florida also. The flower is initially white and opens at dusk. Night time is when the Rangoon creeper's heady scent is released attracting nocturnal pollinators such as moths. On the second day, the flowers turn bright pink. By the third day, the flowers turn brilliant scarlet attracting daytime pollinators like bees and birds.


Rangoon creeper's fragrance is quite lush and initially reminiscent of jasmine. There is also a similarity to heliotrope with its powdery vanilla and marzipan notes. Rather than leaning buttery or indolic as many white flowers do, the fatty note in the Rangoon creeper's scent is like toasted coconut. Not an overly sweet or synthetic coconut but a rich, smooth, toasted coconut aroma. You probably wouldn't even immediately recognize it as coconut as it lingers in the background.


The fragrance of the Rangoon creeper has been replicated in Gucci Bloom using the technique of headspace technology. It is not possible to extract the scent of Rangoon creeper flowers by processes such as distillation, solvent extraction, expression, sieving, or enfleurage. Developed in the 1980's, headspace technology analyzes the air around a fragrant object such as a flower to elucidate the odor compounds present. Headspace equipment entails a hollow dome or globe-like container forming an occlusive, airtight seal surrounding the object(s) of interest. Inert gases are then passed into the container or a vacuum is established. The odor compounds are captured using a variety of methods including cold surfaces, solvent traps, and adsorbent materials. The samples can then be analyzed using qualitative and quantitative techniques like gas chromatography, mass spectrometry, or Carbon-13 NMR. When the identity and quantity of the odor compounds have been determined a recreation of the scent in the air around the flower can be made. The replicated scent or accord is pieced together with synthetic and natural isolates. Gucci Bloom is the first perfume to use a Rangoon creeper accord developed with headspace technology.


As you might expect with a fragrance named Bloom, the opening is distinctly and definitely floral. Jasmine and tuberose start out and almost screechy. Green notes soon become apparent suggesting vivid leaves and stems while tempering the tuberose and jasmine. Soon heliotrope-like powderiness and vanilla peek through further subduing the tuberose and jasmine. A hint of toasted coconut replaces the buttery and indolic notes you'd expect with white flowers. A light musk underscores the fragrance, and something reminiscent of salt and sand. As it develops Gucci Bloom simply softens, lasting about 6 to 8 hours on my skin. It remains linear but is so multifaceted I never lose interest in it.



The overall impression of Gucci Bloom is heady, slightly sweet, tropical, elegant, ultra-feminine, uncomplicated, and fresh. The toasted coconut note combined with tuberose and jasmine reminds me of an idyllic tropical vacation (without veering into suntan lotion cliché) rather than the Mediterranean garden pictured in the ads. Gucci Bloom is never overwhelming nor heavy the way some white florals can be. The fragrance never goes animalic, fecal, or obnoxious even in Monsoon heat and humidity. It's another scent like Houbigant's Orangers en Fleurs that somehow manages to feel both modern and vintage at once.

These totally dope gold Gucci loafers were available last year at Sak's for a mere $730.
I would rock these until the horsebits fell off!

I really thought Gucci Bloom was going to be yet another syrupy sweet thing when I first saw the raspberry toile box and Millennial pink bottle. Although it was released midsummer 2017 I didn't try it until this year. I thought at best it would be some wan, nondescript, floral thing like the Flora by Gucci Garden collection of 2012. After trying it on at Delhi duty-free I had to have a bottle of my own. I love it! Apparently, it has been quite well received as there are two new flankers released this year: Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiori and Gucci Bloom Nettare di Fiori. If you are looking for a modern, feminine, office-friendly, well behaved, gorgeous white floral- try Gucci Bloom.

Have you tried Gucci Bloom?
Get your Gucci on!

Nov 27, 2017

Perfume Review: Twilly D'Hermès

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On our recent trip to Delhi, I had a chance to try the new fragrance: Twilly D'Hermès. I'm not a big Hermès fan but the simplistic notes listed for this new fragrance intrigued me- ginger, tuberose, and sandalwood. And who could resist this campaign spiel:

"The scent of the Hermès girls, Twilly d'Hermès is a daring fragrance woven with striking ginger and sensual tuberose—floral, spicy, and oriental. Ginger, tuberose, and sandalwood are given a new twist. Combined differently, they become searing spice, a disconcerting attraction, a revelation of the carnal." 

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Grace Kelly: "It's Air-maysss, dahlings!"
Hermès is IMMENSELY popular in Asia nowadays. A Twilly is the iconic brand's long thin ribbon-like silk scarf. They are worn mostly by young fashionistas/os in all sorts of ways: as neck scarves, headbands, wristbands, belts, or purse accessories tied in a bow on the handle. Your bog-standard 32" x 2" Twilly costs about $160. I have seen many South Delhi Brats ferrying their Kellys, Lindys, and Birkins about with a Twilly festooning the handle. Apparently, youngsters find the Twilly less matronly than the 35" x 35" traditional Carré scarf. 

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Start'em young, Hermès!
The ad certainly seems to target young girls. The campaign straddles the line between not too hip and not too twee. The bottle with its derby hat lid and jaunty silk necktie certainly suggests something stylish yet fun. Looks like the perfect fragrance for a young girl's first "grown-up" perfume. My initial thoughts were something along the lines of "Ooo! A bubblegummy tuberose paired with bright, lemony ginger? The American Bazooka brand bubblegum's original flavor is a mild ginger with vanilla.That actually sounds like an interesting twist on the floral-fruity genre. 
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Christine Nagel
(Hey Goody! She's got your glasses!)

"It is with young women in mind, by observing their lives, that I created Twilly d’Hermès. Free, bold, and irreverent, they swim against the tide, impose their own rhythm, invent a brand new tempo."
- Christine Nagel

Christine Nagel is the new house perfume at Hermès replacing Jean-Claude Ellena. Mr. Ellena has developed Hermès' perfumery style as minimalistic, transparent, and focussed on a key accord. He usually achieved this by using copious amounts of the popular synthetic Iso E Super. Christine Nagel's style is apparent in her creations such as Armani Si, Versace WomanNarciso Rodriguez For Her, Karl Lagerfeld for Her, and Miss Dior Cherie.


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Upon two sprays applied to the inner wrist: A very earthy, peppery, ginger followed by a shrill, sweet orange blossom note that lingers for about 10 minutes then disappears. There's a green, herbaceous note that's almost licorice-y? After about twenty minutes all that's left is a bit of creamy sandalwood and a slightly vanillic musk. So I guessed the orange blossom was supposed to be the hint of tuberose washed clean of any trace of indoles. (Apparently, indoles are equated with 'old lady' perfumes in the younger set.) What was that earthy, peppery, herbaceous, licorice note that bunged up the lemony ginger?

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A little internet research led me to determine that this note was a new synthetic musk called Polvolide from the Japanese company Soda Aromatics. Polvolide is a potent macrocyclic musk with a herbal-spicy, fennel-anisic side. According to the description on Soda Aromatics' website the musk's fragrance is also “luminous,” "like a flower suddenly blooming," and has a "powdery fragrance that Japanese people like." Musks are one of those strange molecules that seem to be perceived differently by everyone. Some people are completely anosmic to particular musks and some can only detect certain facets of them. Women’s sensitivity to musk is 1,000 times greater than men’s. Evidently, my olfactory bulb picks up on the fennel-anisic side of Polvolide and interprets its powderiness as vanillic. Your mileage may vary.

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Will the young ladies love Twilly D'Hermès? I don't know. Thankfully it's not another hyper-sweet sugar bomb or pink fruitichouli like most other recent fragrances marketed for girls. It definitely wasn't "a revelation of the carnal" as the ad implied. I'm not a huge fan of Hermès' minimalistic and abstract fragrances anyway, I prefer a little bombast for my dollar.  I would give it kudos for originality though and would definitely like try it on my skin again. If only the ginger were the "searing spice" and the tuberose a "disconcerting attraction" as advertised.

Anyone else try Twilly D'Hermès? What did you think?
I hope all of my American readers had a lovely Thanksgiving!

Toodle-pip!

Bibi


Sep 11, 2017

Perfume Review: Houbigant Orangers en Fleurs

life, love, houbigant, Orangers, Orangers en Fleurs, perfume, fragrance, review, orange blossom, tuberose, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, nutmeg, eau de brouts, cedar, musk,
Orangers en Fleurs eau de parfum
Today I thought I'd do a review of my favorite perfume, Houbigant's Orangers en Fleurs. This new interpretation of orange blossom is not just a simple soliflore. It's a lush bouquet of orange blossom, tuberose, Turkish rose, Cormoros ylang-ylang, and Egyptian jasmine. Spicy nutmeg, eau de brouts, sheer cedar, and a base of clean musk temper this heady white floral. I'm certain reading Bibi rave about this overlooked gem is far more interesting than listening to her kvetch and crab about the Monsoon heat, eh? 
Matryoshka dolls
I first came across this perfume in a small duty-free shop in Moscow's Sheremetyevo International Airport in 2015. I had a 7 hour layover and was leisurely perusing all and sundry luxury goods on offer in the airport. I was expecting amber, vodka, caviar, matryoshka dolls, t-shirts, and perhaps furs? Nope! It was all perfumes and makeup - Bibi's most favorite things! And we're talking everything in the way of fragrance- Amouage, Montale, Escentual Molecules, Juliette has a Gun, Clive Christian, Chanel, Hermes,-you name it they had it. Bibi was in perfume heaven!!! So after about an hour of sampling at the bigger shops I stumbled across this tiny boutique at the end of the terminal. This little boutique had quite an odd assortment of brands. One wall was devoted to the Arabian brand Ajmal, there was a small selection of uber expensive Amouages, and another counter had an assortment of trendy niche brands like Byredo. I tried a few Byredos and other niche offerings and was rather unimpressed. I've already tried every Ajmal in existence so I declined sampling those. Then I spotted the tackiest 70's looking clear lucite display you can possibly imagine on the back wall. 
Orange blossoms
The garish fluorescent-lit display was devoted to three new offerings from Houbigant: Fougère Royale, Quelques Fleurs Royale, and Orangers en Fleurs. I was thoroughly underwhelmed upon trying the Quelques Fleurs Royale (2004). I tried the new version of Fougère Royale and was AMAZED but I know the Sheikh would never wear anything that bold or complex. The pristine crystal flacon of Orangers en Fleurs intrigued me. An orange tree in bloom? That sounds like a rather unoriginal and uninspiring premise for a luxury fragrance. However, white florals are my jam so I had to try it! And it was love at first sniff. Like the heavens opened up on that grey September day in Moscow and a brilliant beam of white floral bliss sparkled down from paradise. I asked the price. The saleslady said $80. I said, "I'll take it!" The owner of the store exclaimed loudly, 
"But that's the cheapest perfume in the whole store!" 

I replied, "It's the best thing I've tried in the entire airport." Her eyebrows about flew off her head. Guess they have crappy service in Russia too.
life, love, houbigant, Orangers, Orangers en Fleurs, perfume, fragrance, review, orange blossom, tuberose, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, nutmeg, eau de brouts, cedar, musk,
My box has a white satin lining not this pink bathroom wallpaper stuff.
So I waited patiently until I arrived in Delhi to unbox my new treasure. I opened the immaculate white box stamped with a gilded logo of stylized orange blossoms and lined with elegant white satin. The crystal flacon has a nice heft to it but I will say I was a bit disappointed that the cap is plastic. I spritzed myself lightly before dinner. Would this turn out to be a disappointment as some other love (or like) at first sniff purchases have been? Would it simper off into nothingness in the searing heat of Delhi or morph into something monstrous? The sharp opening of the dry, gorgeously green, and petitgrain-like note of the eau de brouts was refreshing in the heat of the Subcontinent. The honeyed brightness of the orange blossom came shining through next. But then the real star of the show came forward...

Tuberose
A lush and buttery tuberose! The heady tuberose is the perfect foil for the soapiness of the orange blossom. Then Egyptian jasmine absolute appears adding further warmth yet remaining elegant, not animalistic. The prim Turkish rose absolute imperceptibly blends with the orange blossom. Cormoros ylang-ylang brings yet another facet with it's tropical note. Nutmeg chimes in delicately with a subtle citrusy spiciness completely in harmony with the orange tree theme. The cedar is so sheer it simply comes across as part of the tree. As the fragrance dies down a base of clean white musk is revealed. Nectarous orange blossom does continue to linger well into the dry down lightly hovering over the musk for hours (if not days). A deeper whiff reveals that intoxicating tuberose seductively lurking. This perfume gets an A+++ from me for a tenacity of over 12 hours in withering South Asian heat and humidity. In spite of this longevity it remains a well-behaved white floral that never goes indolic, sweaty, skanky, or fecal- YOU CAN WEAR THIS IN THE ELEVATOR!

YAY! A white floral that won't asphyxiate people in close quarters.
I've read reviews complaining that Orangers en Fleurs is overly simple, unoriginal, and just pretty. It is a very traditional floral-woods-musk composition. For me it's simple beauty and sophistication harken back to the classic style of Houbigant's older floral fragrances such as the iconic Quelques Fleurs, Les Violettes, and La Rose France . The perfumer is showcasing the quality of ingredients and their innate complexity perfectly. All those gorgeous absolutes are multifaceted and develop quite enough to keep me interested. This is also one of those amazing perfumes that definitely has a vintage feel to it but is somehow thoroughly modern too. No synthetic sleight of hands nor artifices required. Sometimes pretty and uncomplicated is what's called for. I certainly don't want to compete with the cacophonous and often overwhelming stench of South Asia. At least it isn't yet another one of those ubiquitous pink fruitichouli or gourmand things so popular nowadays!

life, love, houbigant, Orangers, Orangers en Fleurs, perfume, fragrance, review, orange blossom, tuberose, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, nutmeg, eau de brouts, cedar, musk,

Orangers en Fleurs was launched by Houbigant in 2012. Apparently, it was initially only available at Bergdorf-Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The price started out at the princely sum of $180 for 100mls of the eau de parfum and $600 for 100mls of the parfum. I've now seen the eau de parfum priced as low as $60 for 100mls at online discounters. It's such an underrated bargain! I'm not sure if it wasn't a huge success because florals aren't trendy now or that hip niche houses are considered more fashionable ? I do have to say that Houbigant could have done a lot better with their marketing of the fragrance. I mean look at that ad -
WHY ARE THERE PINK ALMOND BLOSSOMS ON AN AD FOR AN ORANGE BLOSSOM FRAGRANCE!?! 
Pink has nothing to do with this fragrance!!!! White, green, and gold are the colors of this perfume. Almonds?!?

Kirsten Dunst as Marie-Antoinette frolicking at the (relatively) understated surroundings of the Petit Trianon
Houbigant has a long history of purveying to the French, British, and Russian aristocracy. Obviously, Houbigant wished to draw on it's legendary past with that classic Baccarat style flacon and the retro floral feel of Orangers en Fleurs. Marie-Antoinette was a famed client of Houbigant whose passion for feigned rusticity started the trend to lighter floral scents. Because of Marie-Antoinette the dense animalics so popular in the 17th century faded from popularity. Ethereal and elegant compositions of florals and woods became en vogue. Why not get a Kirsten Dunst look-a-like in a flimsy muslin chemise a la reine lolling about the Petit Trianon sniffing an orange blossom posy for the ad? Or just a boxed orange tree amongst the parterres of the Orangerie at Verailles in the background to infer an aristocratic bent?

Queen Victoria's wedding portrait
Here's another royal patron of Houbigant with a love for orange blossoms. Queen Victoria donned a pastoral coronet of orange blossoms on her wedding day. Her white gown and orange blossom headpiece set the style for western weddings for the next 200 years. Why not a simple orange blossom wreath or tiara next to or around the bottle for the ad? Oh well, I doubt Houbigant will be calling me for advertising advice.
life, love, houbigant, Orangers, Orangers en Fleurs, perfume, fragrance, review, orange blossom, tuberose, Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, nutmeg, eau de brouts, cedar, musk,
Boxed set of Orangers en Fleurs eau de parfum with scented lotion
(What is up with that tacky peach and green print on the box? It looks like a feminine hygiene product.)
Anywho, by now you've probably guessed that I absolutely love this perfume. From start to finish this perfume is just absolute perfection. Indeed, if I had to choose a signature scent- this would be it! Despite florals not being 'on trend' nowadays I get all sorts of compliments on this fragrance. A Chinese lady chased me down the street in Kathmandu last month wanting to know what the "powdery" perfume was that I was wearing. The Sheikh can be rather persnickety about perfumes but he has actually asked me to wear this one! I'd love to try the extrait. The eau de parfum is pretty potent so I'm curious as to how the stronger extrait would wear. I'm not certain if I could convince the Sheikh it's imperative that we buy a $600 bottle of parfum for me to try though ;)

What's your favorite perfume?
Any new white florals or tuberoses out there you think I should know about?
I am anxiously awaiting Gabrielle (the new Chanel tuberose)!
Hope your Summer went well and you're ready for a glorious Fall!
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