Nov 27, 2017

Perfume Review: Twilly D'Hermès

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On our recent trip to Delhi, I had a chance to try the new fragrance: Twilly D'Hermès. I'm not a big Hermès fan but the simplistic notes listed for this new fragrance intrigued me- ginger, tuberose, and sandalwood. And who could resist this campaign spiel:

"The scent of the Hermès girls, Twilly d'Hermès is a daring fragrance woven with striking ginger and sensual tuberose—floral, spicy, and oriental. Ginger, tuberose, and sandalwood are given a new twist. Combined differently, they become searing spice, a disconcerting attraction, a revelation of the carnal." 

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Grace Kelly: "It's Air-maysss, dahlings!"
Hermès is IMMENSELY popular in Asia nowadays. A Twilly is the iconic brand's long thin ribbon-like silk scarf. They are worn mostly by young fashionistas/os in all sorts of ways: as neck scarves, headbands, wristbands, belts, or purse accessories tied in a bow on the handle. Your bog-standard 32" x 2" Twilly costs about $160. I have seen many South Delhi Brats ferrying their Kellys, Lindys, and Birkins about with a Twilly festooning the handle. Apparently, youngsters find the Twilly less matronly than the 35" x 35" traditional Carré scarf. 

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Start'em young, Hermès!
The ad certainly seems to target young girls. The campaign straddles the line between not too hip and not too twee. The bottle with its derby hat lid and jaunty silk necktie certainly suggests something stylish yet fun. Looks like the perfect fragrance for a young girl's first "grown-up" perfume. My initial thoughts were something along the lines of "Ooo! A bubblegummy tuberose paired with bright, lemony ginger? The American Bazooka brand bubblegum's original flavor is a mild ginger with vanilla.That actually sounds like an interesting twist on the floral-fruity genre. 
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Christine Nagel
(Hey Goody! She's got your glasses!)

"It is with young women in mind, by observing their lives, that I created Twilly d’Hermès. Free, bold, and irreverent, they swim against the tide, impose their own rhythm, invent a brand new tempo."
- Christine Nagel

Christine Nagel is the new house perfume at Hermès replacing Jean-Claude Ellena. Mr. Ellena has developed Hermès' perfumery style as minimalistic, transparent, and focussed on a key accord. He usually achieved this by using copious amounts of the popular synthetic Iso E Super. Christine Nagel's style is apparent in her creations such as Armani Si, Versace WomanNarciso Rodriguez For Her, Karl Lagerfeld for Her, and Miss Dior Cherie.


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Upon two sprays applied to the inner wrist: A very earthy, peppery, ginger followed by a shrill, sweet orange blossom note that lingers for about 10 minutes then disappears. There's a green, herbaceous note that's almost licorice-y? After about twenty minutes all that's left is a bit of creamy sandalwood and a slightly vanillic musk. So I guessed the orange blossom was supposed to be the hint of tuberose washed clean of any trace of indoles. (Apparently, indoles are equated with 'old lady' perfumes in the younger set.) What was that earthy, peppery, herbaceous, licorice note that bunged up the lemony ginger?

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A little internet research led me to determine that this note was a new synthetic musk called Polvolide from the Japanese company Soda Aromatics. Polvolide is a potent macrocyclic musk with a herbal-spicy, fennel-anisic side. According to the description on Soda Aromatics' website the musk's fragrance is also “luminous,” "like a flower suddenly blooming," and has a "powdery fragrance that Japanese people like." Musks are one of those strange molecules that seem to be perceived differently by everyone. Some people are completely anosmic to particular musks and some can only detect certain facets of them. Women’s sensitivity to musk is 1,000 times greater than men’s. Evidently, my olfactory bulb picks up on the fennel-anisic side of Polvolide and interprets its powderiness as vanillic. Your mileage may vary.

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Will the young ladies love Twilly D'Hermès? I don't know. Thankfully it's not another hyper-sweet sugar bomb or pink fruitichouli like most other recent fragrances marketed for girls. It definitely wasn't "a revelation of the carnal" as the ad implied. I'm not a huge fan of Hermès' minimalistic and abstract fragrances anyway, I prefer a little bombast for my dollar.  I would give it kudos for originality though and would definitely like try it on my skin again. If only the ginger were the "searing spice" and the tuberose a "disconcerting attraction" as advertised.

Anyone else try Twilly D'Hermès? What did you think?
I hope all of my American readers had a lovely Thanksgiving!

Toodle-pip!

Bibi


Nov 20, 2017

Perfume Review: Chanel's Gabrielle



gabrielle, perfume, fragrance, review, chanel, polge, hedione, bug spray

On my recent visit to Delhi I had the chance to try Chanel's hotly anticipated new fragrance launch of the year: Gabrielle.  It’s the first "pillar" (as in not a flanker) feminine scent Chanel has launched in 15 years and took 5 years to develop.  The fragrance is said to embody the house's founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel when she was a young girl: a rebel at heart, passionate and self-ruling, freeing herself to become the woman she wanted to be. The concept from Chanel's website:

"A solar fragrance created around four points of light from four white flowers: orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine and Grasse tuberose.
Olivier Polge crafted the dream flower. The only flower that could embody the unrestrained femininity of Gabrielle Chanel herself."

Olivier Polge is Chanel's house perfumer following in the footsteps of his father Jacques Polge whom retired in 2015. The fragrance's alleged notes are listed as such by Chanel:

Top notes: mandarin, grapefruit, black currant
Heart: tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom
Base: sandalwood, musk


gabrielle, perfume, fragrance, review, chanel, polge, hedione, bug spray
Looking mighty fierce there, Ms Stewart.

Here's the ad for Gabrielle. Kristen Stewart plays her rebel spirit self in the campaign by fighting, punching, and dancing her way out of a gauzy cocoon to the sounds of Beyonce's Runnin'. Tres hip. Evidently the launch for Gabrielle took place in Paris at the trendy Palais de Tokyo and included a high-tech immersive "fragrance journey" into the world of Gabrielle. This included a holographic perfume bottle  that burst into a shower of virtual white flowers. The DJ was Pharrell Williams and the guest list was full of stylish A-Listers including Ms Stewart.  (I wasn't invited.)
gabrielle, perfume, fragrance, review, chanel, polge, hedione, bug spray

Upon liberal application of Gabrielle to my wrists at Delhi Duty-Free: A blast of bitter grapefruit followed immediately by orange blossom bathroom cleaner sitting on the same thickly sweet vanilla-woods-musk base as Coco Mademoiselle. That's it. Whew, that's a lot of grapefruit in that bathroom cleaner. Turned obnoxiously to citronella and sandalwood a few hours later in the Delhi heat. Honestly, it was like some sort of posh bug repellent. My skin usually amps up the sweet in most fragrances but the acerbic grapefruit and heavy musk base went absolutely rank in the Indian incalescence. Definitely not a warm weather fragrance. Just to make certain I tried another spritz of Gabrielle the next day at the Chanel boutique in Delhi- still went from insipid to insecticidal.

gabrielle, perfume, fragrance, review, chanel, polge, hedione, bug spray
The omnipresent scent of the '00's Coco Mademoiselle
(actually it's still the best selling perfume worldwide)

I thought Gabrielle was going to be a white floral? The supposed "dream flower" reimagined in Gabrielle is barely discernible as even botanical. Just plop a bit of hedione and jasmolactone in there and call it a flower! Surely with all the premium materials Mr Polge has access to in Grasse he could have done better than this. This isn't youthful and radiant it's another banal fruity-floral thing. This is abstract to the point of being a cleaning product not a luxury fragrance. It could easily be a flanker of Jacques Polge's ubiquitous 2001 hit Coco Mademoiselle eau de parfum rather than any "pillar" fragrance. Perhaps they should've marketed this as Coco Mademoiselle Gold or Coco Mademoiselle Soleil?
gabrielle, perfume, fragrance, review, chanel, polge, hedione, bug spray
Hedione  (Methyl dihydrojasmonate)
Anyway, if you like Coco Mademoiselle and want to smell like one of the numerous dupes that followed it's success with a few random floral notes tossed in - you'll love Gabrielle. If you're a fan of Lancome's La Vie Est Belle (another Olivier Polge fragrance) you'll probably like Gabrielle as it has a similar vibe. I know I'm not the teens to 20-somethings demographic Chanel was aiming for with this perfume - but I do think youngsters can handle something that actually smells like a white floral.

So, I guess I'm not a Chanel kind of gal. 
My camera had to be shipped to Delhi for repairs so I shan't be doing any recipes for a bit. 
What's up with you? 
Have you tried Gabrielle or any other new fragrances of note?

Toodle-oo,

Bibi


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